Today technologies of embroidery are applied for the production of composite materials, intelligent (smart) clothing or textiles as well as in medicine. In the modern production of garments, embroidery fulfils decorative, informative, and safety functions. The possible best quality of the embroidered element has to be ensured. The woven fabric covered with embroidery threads is compressed and buckled between the needle pricks. Such effects may result not only in relaxation processes in the embroidery threads after the embroidery process but may also affect the properties of the embroidered material. The behaviour of the material inside an embroidered element may result in the thickness of the material and influence its structure, bending rigidity, formability, shear stiffness, etc. Our aim was to investigate the buckling of materials with different physical properties inside embroidered elements. For investigations woven fabrics with different structure and mechanical properties and polyester embroidery threads were selected. The digital design (width 6 mm, length 60 mm) was generated applying Wilcom Embroidery Software 2006 Software Package. An automated embroidery machine Barudan BEVT-Z901CA was used to prepare the specimens. Embroidering process speed of 700 stitches per minute was applied. Six test specimens were embroidered in the warp and weft directions. The investigation showed that fabric structure indicators such as linear filling and linear porosity influence the formation of the height and shape of the buckling waves inside the embroidered element.
1. Merritt, C. Electronic Textile-Based Sensors and Systems for Long-Term Health Monitoring. Doctoral Dissertation, North Carolina St. University, 2008.
2. Michalak, M., Kazakevičius, V., Dudzinska, S., Krucinska, I., and Brazis, R. Textiles embroidered with split-rings as barriers against microwave radiation. Fibres Text. East. Eur., 2009, 17, 66–70.
3. Taelman, J., Adriaensen, T., van der Horst, C., Linz, T., and Spaepen, A. Textile integrated contactless EMG sensing for stress analysis. In 29th Annual International Conference of the IEEE Engineering in Medicine and Biology Society EMBC, Lyon, France, August 2007, 3966–3969.
4. Karamuk, Z. E. Embroidered Textiles for Medical Applications: New Design Criteria with Respect to Structural Biocompatibility. Doctoral Thesis, Swiss Federal Institute of Technology, Zurich, 2001.
5. Warrior, N. A., Rudd, C. D., and Gardner, S. P. Experimental studies of embroidery for the local reinforcement of composites structures: 1. Stress concentrations. Compos. Sci. Technol., 1999, 59(14), 2125–2137.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0266-3538(99)00071-8
6. Kannaian, T., Janarthanan, M., and Thilagavathi, G. An overview of electronics textiles. IE(I) Journal TX, 2010, 90, 9–15.
7. Jucienė, M. and Dobilaitė, V. The effect of fabric properties on seam pucker indicator. In The 5th International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference: Book of Proceeding. Dubrovnik, Croatija, 2010, 464–469.
8. Strazdienė, E., Blaževič, P., Vegys, A., and Dapkūnienė, K. New tendencies of wearable electronics application in smart clothing. Electronics and Electrical Engineering, 2007, 1, 21–23.
9. Radavičienė, S. and Jucienė, M. Investigation of mechanical properties of embroidery threads. In The 5th International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference: Book of Proceeding. Dubrovnik, Croatija, 2010, 494–499.
10. Klevaitytė, R. and Masteikaitė, V. Anisotropy of woven fabric deformation after stretching. Fibres Text. East. Eur., 2008, 16, 52–56.
11. Klevaitytė, R., Sacevičienė, V., and Masteikaitė, V. Investigation of fabrics tensile deformations. Material Science (Medžiagotyra), 2006, 12, 152–157.
12. Domskienė, J., Strazdienė, E., and Maladauskaitė, D. The peculiarities of textile behaviour under in-plane compression. In Baltic Textile & Leather: International Conference. Kaunas–Vilnius, Lithuania, 11–12 September 2003, 76–80.
13. Domskienė, J. and Strazdienė, E. The effect of bending rigidity upon fabric behaviour in-plane compression. Textil, 2005, 54, 255–259.
14. Alamdar-Yazdi, A. and Amirbayat, J. Evaluation of the basic low stress mechanical properties (bending, shearing and tensile). Int. J. Clothing Sci. Technol., 2000, 12, 311–330.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/09556220010377850
15. Naujokaitytė, L. and Strazdienė, E. Investigation of textile fabrics behaviour under compression. Material Science (Medžiagotyra), 2007, 13, 337–342.
16. Bekampienė, P. and Domskienė, J. Influence of stitching pattern on deformation behaviour of woven fabric during forming. Material Science (Medžiagotyra), 2010, 6, 226–230.
17. Chernenko, D. A. Systematization of Design Parameters for Automated Embroidery and Modeling of Deformation System of “Fabric–Embroidery”. Doctoral Dissertation, State Technological University of Orel, Orel, 2006.
18. El Gholmy, S., Bondok, N., and El Geiheini, A. Optimization of embroidery design on denim fabrics. In The 5th International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference: Book of Proceeding. Dubrovnik, Croatija, 2010, 821–826.
19. LST ISO 3801:1998. Textiles. Woven Fabrics. Determination of Mass per Unit Length and Mass per Unit Area.
20. LST EN 1049-2:1998. Textiles – Woven Fabrics – Construction – Methods of Analysis – Part 2: Determination of Number of Threads per Unit Length.
21. Dobilaitė, V. and Jucienė, M. The influence of mechanical properties of sewing threads on seam pucker. Int. J. Clothing Sci. Technol., 2006, 18, 335–345.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/09556220610685276
http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/eb002972
