eesti teaduste
akadeemia kirjastus
SINCE 1952
Proceeding cover
of the estonian academy of sciences
ISSN 1736-7530 (Electronic)
ISSN 1736-6046 (Print)
Impact Factor (2021): 1.024
Nonlinear evaluation of the kinematics of directional field waves; pp. 270–277
PDF | doi: 10.3176/proc.2015.3.10

John Grue

A nonlinear calculation procedure for obtaining the wave kinematics from elevation measurements from field data is outlined in detail. A horizontal current is accounted for. The numerical calculations from the field data are compared to the kinematics of random waves obtained in laboratory measurements.


1. Clamond, D. and Grue, J. A fast method for fully nonlinear water wave computations. J. Fluid Mech., 2001, 447, 337–355.

2. Fructus, D., Clamond, D., Grue, J., and Kristiansen, Ø. An efficient model for three-dimensional surface wave simulations. Part I. Free space problems. J. Comput. Phys., 2005, 205, 665–685.

3. Grue, J. On four highly nonlinear phenomena in wave theory and marine hydrodynamics. Appl. Ocean Res., 2002, 24, 261–274.

4. Grue, J. and Jensen, A. Orbital velocity and breaking in steep random gravity waves. J. Geophys. Res., 2012, 117, C07013.

5. Grue, J., Clamond, D., Huseby, M., and Jensen, A. Kinematics of extreme waves in deep water. Appl. Ocean Res. 2003, 25, 355–366.

6. Romero, L. and Melville, W. K. Airborne observations of fetch-limited waves in the Gulf of Tehuantepec. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 2010, 40, 441–645.

Back to Issue