Thanks to favourable preservation conditions, thousands of textile fragments dating from the medieval and modern era have been found in Tartu cesspits. These fragments mostly originate from fabrics made of wool; silk finds are rare (0.6% of finds). Medieval and
early modern sumptuary laws are a valuable source for evaluating attitudes to silk in comparison to archaeological evidence. Pieces of silk fabrics, bands and sewing threads, which could be characterised as rather modest, are nonetheless important when investigating consumption habits in a middle-sized Hanseatic town in medieval Livonia. Wearing silk in Tartu during this period can be regarded as a sign of luxury consumption, self-expression and social display.
Appadurai, , A. 1986. Introduction: commodities and the politics of value. – The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. Ed. A. Appadurai. Cambridge, 3–63.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511819582.003
http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511819582
Crowfoot, , E., Pritchard, , F. & Staniland, , K. 2006. Textiles and Clothing, c.1150 – c.1450. Medieval Finds from Excavations in London, 4 (2nd edition). The Boydell Press, Woodbridge.
Dahl, C. L. 2009. Mengiað klæthe and tweskifte klædher. Marbled, patterned and parti-coloured clothing in medieval Scandinavia. – The Medieval Broadcloth: Changing Trends in Fashions, Manufacturing and Consumption. Eds K. Vestergård Pedersen & M.-L. B. Nosch. (Ancient Textiles Series, 6.) Oxbow Books, Oxford, Oakville, 122–138.
Dietler, M. 2010. Consumption. – The Oxford Handbook of Material Culture Studies. Eds D. Hicks & M. C. Beaudry. Oxford University Press, 209–228.
Endrei, W. 1988. Unidentifizierte Gewebenamen – namenlosen Gewebe. – Handwerk und Sachkultur im Spätmittelalter. Internationaler Kongress Krems an der Donau 7. bis 10. Oktober 1986. (Veröffentlichungen des Instituts für mittelalterliche Realienkunde Österreichs, 11. Österreichische Akademie der Wissenschaften Philosophisch-historische Klasse. Sitzungsberichte, 513.) Wien, 233–251.
Haak, A. & Russow, E. 2012. Interpreting find complexes from the medieval cesspits of Tartu. – Medieval Urban Textiles in Northern Europe. Eds A. Haak & R. Rammo. (MT, 22.) Tartu, 147–172.
Hansen, G. 2015. Luxury for everyone? Embroideries on leather shoes and the consumption of silk yarn in 11th–13th century northern Europe. – Textiles and the Medieval Economy. Production, Trade and Consumption of Textiles, 8th–16th Centuries. Eds A. L. Huang & C. Jahnke. (Ancient Textiles Series, 16.) Oxbow Books, Oxford, Philadelphia, 86–103.
Hansen, G. v. 1894. Altlivländische und revalsche Kleiderordnungen des 16. und 17. Jahrhunderts. – Aus baltischer Vergangenheit. Miscellaneen aus dem Revaler Stadtarchiv. Hrsg. von G. v. Hansen. Reval, 17–35.
Jaacks, G. 1993. Seidenes Bekleidungsbeiwerk aus den Lübecker Altstadtgrabungen. (Lübecker Schriften zur archäologie und Kulturgeschichte, 23.) Bonn, 295–301.
Jahnke, C. 2004. Netzwerke in Handel und Kommunikation an der Wende vom 15. zum
16. Jahrhundert am Beispiel zweier Revaler Kaufleute. Habilitationschrift. Christian-Alberts-Universität zu Kiel. Manuscript in the Tallinn City Archives.
Khoroshkevich, A. 1958. = Хорошкевич А. Л. Торговля иностранными тканями в Новгороде в XIV–XV вв. (Исторические записки, 63.) Издательство Aкадемии наук СССР, 206–243.
Kohout, D. & Březinová, H. 2015. An assemblage of medieval archaeological textiles from Prague: a study of current and original colours. – Aspects of the Design, Production and Use of Textiles and Clothing from the Bronze Age to the Early Modern Era. NESAT XII. The North European Symposium of Archaeological Textiles 21st–24th May 2014 in Hallstatt, Austria. Eds K. Grömer & F. Pritchard. (Archaeolingua, 33.) Budapest, 331–340.
Laul, S. & Tamla, Ü. 2014. Peitleid Lõhavere linnamäelt. (Õpetatud Eesti Seltsi Kirjad, 10.) Tartu, Tallinn. [http://www.arheo.ut.ee/docs/Peitleid-L6havere-linnamaelt.pdf]
Mickwitz, G. 1938. Aus Revaler Handelsbüchern: zur Technik des Ostseehandels in der ersten Hälfte des 16. Jahrhunderts. (Societas Scientiarum Fennica. Commentationes humanarum litterarum, IX, 8.) Helsingfors.
Miller, D. 1987. Material Culture and Mass Consumption. Basil Blackwell, Oxford.
Monnas, L. 2008. Merchants, Princes and Painters. Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern Paintings 1300–1550. Yale University Press, New Haven, London.
Müller, U. 2008. Luxus und Lifestyle – Konzepte, Funde und Befunde am Beispiel von Schleswig. – Luxus und Lifestyle. Lübecker Kolloquium zur Stadtarchäologie im Hanseraum VI. Hrsg. von M. Gläser. Verlag Schmidt-Römhild, Lübeck, 357–376.
Mullins, P. R. 2004. Ideology, power, and capitalism: the historical archaeology of consumption. – A Companion to Social Archaeology. Eds L. Meskell & R. W. Preucel. Blackwell Publishing, 195–211.
Munro, J. H. 2009. Three centuries of luxury textile consumption in the Low Countries and England, 1330–1570: trends and comparisons of real values of woollen broadcloths (then and now). –
The Medieval Broadcloth: Changing Trends in Fashions, Manufacturing and Consumption. Eds
K. Vestergård Pedersen & M.-L. B. Nosch. (Ancient Textiles Series, 6.) Oxbow Books, Oxford, Oakville, 1–73.
Muthesius, A. 2003. Silk in the medieval world. – The Cambridge History of Western Textiles. Vol. I. Ed. D. Jenkins. Cambridge University Press, New York, 325–354.
Nutz, B. 2014. Drgens sn wir vs nvt schame – no shame in braiding. 15th century fingerloop braids from Lengberg Castle. – EJA, 18: 2, 116–134.
http://dx.doi.org/10.3176/arch.2014.2.04
Pabst, E. 1857. Beiträge zur Sittengeschichte Reval’s. – Archiv für die Geschichte Liv-, Esth- und Curlands. Bd. I. Hrsg. von F. G. v. Bunge. Dorpat, 197–237.
Pajur, A. 2014. Costume and Control: Sumptuary Laws and Social Order in Seventeenth-Century Tallinn. Master Thesis. Department of History, University of Uppsala.
Peéts, Yu. 1985. = Пеэтс Ю. Находки шелка в Эстонии и некoторые проблемы торговли Швеции и Прибалтики во второй половине 12. – начале 13. вв. – Скандинавский сборник, 29, 91–103.
Piponnier, F. & Mane, P. 2007. Dress in the Middle Ages. Yale University Press, New Haven, London.
Põltsam, I. 2002. Eesti ala linnaelanike rõivastus 14. sajandi teisest poolest 16. sajandi keskpaigani. – Tuna, 2 (15), 22–43.
Pritchard, F. 2010. Clothing worn in fourteenth-century London based on archaeological evidence. – Fashion and Clothing in Late Medieval Europe. Mode und Kleidung im Europa des späten Mittelalters. Hrsg. von R. C. Schwinges, R. Schorta & K. Oschema. Abbeg-Stiftung Riggisberg, Schwabe Verlag Basel, 131–136.
Rammo, R. 2009. Searching for broadcloth in Tartu (14th–15th century). – The Medieval Broadcloth. Changing Trends in Fashions, Manufacturing and Consumption. Eds K. Vestergård Pedersen &
M.-L. B. Nosch. (Ancient Textile Series, 6.) Oxbow Books, Oxford, Oakville, 99–108.
Rammo, R. 2010. Social and economic aspects of textile consumption in medieval Tartu, Estonia. – North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X; Copenhagen, Denmark; 14th–17th May 2008. Eds E. Andersson Strand, M. Gleba, U. Mannering, C. Munkholt & M. Ringgaard. (Ancient Textiles Series, 5.) Oxbow Books, Oxford, Oakville, 201–207.
Rammo, R. 2012. Fragments of clothing from medieval Tartu (Estonia). – Medieval Urban Textiles in Northern Europe. Eds A. Haak & R. Rammo. (MT, 22.) Tartu, 125–146.
Rammo, R. 2015. Ambiguous stripes: a sign for fashionable wear in medieval Tartu. – Everyday Products in the Middle Ages: Crafts, Consumption and the Individual in Northern Europe c. AD 800–1600. Eds G. Hansen, S. P. Ashby & I. Baug. Oxbow Books, Oxford, Philadelphia, 175–191.
Rast-Eicher, A. & Tidow, K. 2011. Mühlberg Ensemble. Die Textilien. – Die Ausgrabungen im Mühlberg-Ensemble, Kempten (Allgäu). Metall, Holz, Textil. Hrsg. von R. Atzbach & I. Ericsson. Dr. Rudolf Habelt GMBH, Bonn, 285–351.
Scarlett, T. J. 2002. Consumption. – Encyclopedia of Historical Archaeology. Ed. C. E. Orser,
Jr. Routledge, London, New York, 129–132.
Schultz, A. 1892. Deutsches Leben im XIV. und XV. Jahrhundert. Prag, Wien, Leipzig.
Spies, N. 2000. Ecclesiastical Pomp and Aristocratic Circumstance. A Thousand Years of Brocaded Tabletwoven Bands. Arelate Studio, Jarrettsville, Maryland.
Spufford, P. 2006. Power and Profit. The Merchant in Medieval Europe. Thames, Hudson, London.
Stieda, W. & Mettig, C. 1896. Schragen der Gilden und Aemter der Stadt Riga bis 1621. Riga.
Tidow, K. 1978. Textilfunde aus einem Brunnen auf dem Schrangen in Lübeck. – Lübecker Schriften zur Archäologie und Kulturgeschichte, 1. Bonn, 139–157.
Tidow, K. 1992. Die spätmittelalterlichen und frühneuzeitlichen Wollgewebe und andere Textilfunde aus Lübeck. (Lübecker Schriften zur Archäologie und Kulturgeschichte, 22.) Bonn, 237–271.
Vons-Comis, S. Y. 1982. Medieval textile finds from the Netherlands. – Archäologische Textilfunde 6.5–8.5.1981. Textilsymposium Neumünster [NESAT 1]. Eds L. Bender Jørgensen & K. Tidow. Neumünster, 151–161.
Walton, P. & Eastwood, G. 1983. A Brief Guide to the Cataloguing of Archaeological Textiles. York.
Walton Rogers, P. 2002. Dress, dress accessories and personal ornament. – Craft, Industry and Everyday Life: Finds from Medieval York. Eds P. Ottoway & N. Rogers. (The Archaeology of York. The Small Finds, 17/15.) London, 2880–2886.
Wincott Heckett, E. 2005. ‘The Apparel oft Proclaims the Man’. Late sixteenth- and early seventeenth-century textiles from Bridge Street Upper, Dublin. – Northern Archaeological Textifles. NESAT VII, Textile Symposium in Edinburgh, 5th–7th May 1999. Eds F. Pritchard & J. P. Wild. Oxbow Books, Oxford, Oakville, 108–114.
